Oakmoss

Safety data – extensively compounded by cutting or adulteration with other lichen or synthetic perfume materials.

Family – Usneaceae

Synonyms – Treemoss

Herbal/folk tradition - Also called oak lungs, lung moss, lungwort or lungs of oak by the Native Americans who use it for respiratory complaints and for treating wounds. It is also called lobaria in the British herbal Pharmocopoeia and is used for asthma, bronchitis and coughs in children. Many types of lichen, especially the Parmelia group are used as vegetable dyes.

Aromatherapy/home use – as a fixative.

Other uses – the concrete is used primarily in soaps; the absolute is the most versatile and is used in all perfume types. The absolute auto is used in high-cost perfumes. The resins and resinoids, which have a poor solubility, are used in soaps, hair preparations, industrial perfumes and low-cost products.

Distribution – the oak is indigenous to Europe and North America; the lichen is collected all over central and southern Europe, especially France, former Yugoslavia, Hungary, Greece and also Morocco and Algeria. The aromatic materials are prepared mainly in France but also in the USA, Bulgaria and former Yugoslavia.

Extraction – a range of products is produced: the concrete and an absolute by solvent extraction from the lichen that has often been soaked in lukewarm water prior to extraction; an absolute oil by vacuum distillation of the concrete; resins and resinoids by alcohol extraction of the raw material. Most important of these products is the absolute.

Characteristics

The absolute is a dark green or brown, very viscous liquid with an extremely tenacious, earth-mossy odor and a leather-like undertone.

The absolute oil is a pale yellow or olive viscous liquid with a dry-earthy, bark-like odor, quite true to nature.

The concrete, resin and resinoids are very dark colored semi solid or solid masses with a heavy, rich, earthy, extremely tenacious odor. They have a high fixative value and blend with virtually all other oils: there are extensively used in perfumery to lend body and rich natural undertones to all perfume types.

Actions – antiseptic, demulcent, expectorant, fixative.

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